DIY Timber Fencing Tips
A sturdy fence does more than just mark a boundary; it provides privacy, keeps pets safe, and frames your garden beautifully. While many people hire contractors for fencing, it is a project that is well within the reach of a capable DIYer. The secret to a fence that stands straight for twenty years instead of leaning after the first autumn gale lies in the preparation and the quality of the materials.
Follow these DIY timber fencing tips to ensure your next project is a resounding success.
1. Know Your Boundaries
Before you dig your first hole, you must be certain of your property line. It is also common courtesy (and often a legal requirement under the Fences Act in many states) to discuss the project with your neighbour. Sharing the cost of a boundary fence is standard practice, so ensure you have agreed on the height and style before ordering your materials.
2. Post Selection: Timber vs Steel
In Australia, we generally choose between H4 treated pine posts or galvanised steel posts. Treated pine posts are traditional and easy to nail into, but they must be rated H4 for in-ground use to prevent rot and termite damage. Steel posts are increasingly popular because they are immune to termites and will never warp, though they require different brackets to attach your timber rails.
3. Digging and Drainage
The most important of all DIY timber fencing tips is to get your post depth right. For a standard 1.8m tall fence, your holes should be at least 600mm deep. In areas with reactive clay soil, you may need to go even deeper. When you set your posts in concrete, do not bury the bottom of the timber completely in a concrete cup. Leave a few centimetres of gravel at the very bottom of the hole to allow water to drain away, preventing the base of the post from sitting in a pool of moisture.
4. Choosing the Right Rails and Palings
A standard paling fence consists of three horizontal rails (top, middle, and bottom) and vertical palings. Using H3 treated pine is the standard choice here. For a truly private fence, we recommend the lap and cap method. This involves overlapping two layers of palings to eliminate any gaps that appear as the timber seasons and shrinks. A top cap rail not only looks professional but also protects the end grain of the palings from water damage.
5. Managing the Slope
Most blocks are not perfectly flat. If your yard has a slope, you will need to decide between stepping the fence or racking it. Stepping keeps the rails level but creates gaps at the bottom, which you can fill with a plinth board. Racking follows the contour of the land and is generally considered easier for beginners working with individual palings.
6. Use the Correct Fixings
The sun and rain can be brutal on hardware. Always use hot-dipped galvanised nails or screws. Standard zinc-plated fixings will rust within a couple of years, leading to loose palings and ugly rust streaks. If you are using a nail gun, ensure the pressure is set so the nail head sits flush with the timber rather than sinking too deep and creating a pocket for water to sit in.
7. The Power of the Plinth Board
Adding a plinth board (a horizontal board at the very bottom of the fence) is a small extra cost that provides a huge benefit. It prevents your palings from touching the soil, which significantly reduces the risk of rot. It also keeps your garden mulch in the yard and prevents small pets from digging their way out.
Ready for the Backyard?
Building your own fence is a great way to save money and pick up some new skills. Once you have your string line out and your first few posts in, the rhythm of the job becomes quite enjoyable.
We have all the treated pine, Post-Mix, and hardware you need in stock. Visit us at Park Road Timber & Hardware Mitre 10 Cheltenham, call us on 9584 8855, or get in touch here.
